Beautiful feathering starts
on the inside. What does your
cockatiel need to eat?
We now know that seed is not the only food needed by pet
birds,
and in fact, birds on a seed only diet, are
very unhealthy.
Only 50% of a bird's diet should be dry seed. Of the
other 50%, dark leafy greens vegetables are the most important.
This is where he obtains vital minerals and vitamins plus
calcium.
Pet cockatiels can learn to accept most veggies, whole
grain bread, pasta, boiled eggs, and rinsed, soaked seeds.
Cockatiels have to recognize pellets or any new food as food
to eat it, so if you want to convert to pelleted bird diet
(Kaytee Exact, Roudybush, Zupreme, etc.) please, READ the
conversion methods on the package! You may have to start the
conversion over with another brand. For a cockatiel to learn
to eat pellets, it will take a few months. Keep changing the
the pellet cup every day so the bird will decide it must be
food, it works. Most cockatiel breeders feed some dry
seed mix and pellets.
Even though they don't recognize something new as
food....pet cockatiels notice what YOU eat and will want to
taste it, but don't let them eat from your mouth. Hookbills,
(parrots)
do not need grit to digest their feed. It is
recommended that you don't give cockatiels grit. An
exception is crushed oyster shell, my understanding is that
oyster shell can be digested and absorbed.
A Balanced Nutrition Sample
Greens: 3 times a week
Beans:
2 times a week
Birdie Bred: Use a birdie bread recipe from this page,
cut into squares, you can freeze to keep on hand to feed
frequently, and place it in the weaning chicks cage.
Pellets:
Offered at all times.
Seed: Offer every day, but take the seed out before dusk and
return at night end. Cockatiels and other parrots will eat
seed over anything else and in order to give them a variety,
you may need to take the seed out - one of their usual
feeding times which is in early morning and just before sun down (or lights out).
Egg Food: 20 minute hard boiled eggs, chopped in
small pieces is a high quality protein food, needed to take
the place of bugs (and other small crawlies) the birds would
eat if they were wild. Give the birds a spoonful once or
twice a week and daily to a pair that are feeding chicks.
Soaked, germinated grains, seeds, beans:
Offer as often as possible. A new sprouting seed is packed
with all kinds of vitamins and minerals. (The longer sprouts
decrease in vitamins and minerals in the sprouted seed,
grain etc.). My birds instinctively know this and don't go
for them as much and sometimes don't want them. I
enjoy how much my birds love to get this treat.
Oatmeal Crumble
1/2 cup oatmeal (uncooked)
medium size jar of baby food (any you want)
scraped cuttlebone or crushed eggshells to a powder
2 boxes of corn muffin mix
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup hulled oats (www.DrsFosterSmith.com) or pellets.
Mix everything together. Cook as
directed on boxes. May need a few more minutes depending on
your oven. Bake in 350s degree oven until edges are golden
and tooth pick comes out clean. Allow to cool then cut into
squares. Freeze and defrost as needed. Let eggshells dry out
before crushing. If you omit the egg shells, use a knife and
scrape cuttlebone into the mixture instead.
Southern Cornbread
2 cups yellow corn meal
1 cup self-rising flour
2 Tablespoons Spirulina (optional)
2 eggs
1 package frozen sweet peas or broccoli
grated carrot
Mix ingredients including egg shells (dried out & crushed).
Pour into greased baking pan and put in preheated 450
degrees oven for about 20 minutes or when tooth pick comes
out clean. Cool completely and cut into small squares and
freeze.
Geminated Hard
Red Winter Wheat
Sprouting is one of the best things you can do for your
birds, plus sprouting is fun and easy! You can get special
draining lids with stainless steel mesh lids (try a health
food store or go online as I did for sprouting websites. I
use a quart jar with the draining lids.
I buy human grain hard red winter wheat online,
it is a fast sprouter and has a nice fresh smell. I
rinse the wheat as soon as I see sprouts, and use a Folger
instant coffee lid on the jar and place it in the fridge
right away because the seeds still keep sprouting too fast.
I keep it 2 days in the fridge then it starts to dry out and
my cockatiels don't want it.
You soak seeds overnight for 8-12 hours in a dark
cabinet. Drain the water from the seeds. Rinse with cold
water twice or three times daily.
After
the initial soaking, drain and rinse seeds two to three
times a day. While you are in this step, it is important to
drain the seeds of all water. Shake the jar well while
filling with fresh water and draining. After 1 - 2 days, you
should notice a sprout coming out of the seed and/or bean.
When the shoot is starting - serve to birds. Keep leftovers
covered in the fridge. Do not let the shoots get long, the
nutritional value is best when the shoot is still small.
Note: You should not have ANY foul odor to your seed and
beans. If you notice any mold, discard. A few drops of GSE
(Grapefruit Seed Extract or Apple Cider Vinegar) in rinsing
water to keep fungi or mold from growing. J.B.
Egg Food
2 hard boiled
1/2 cup crushed Cheerios
1 slice whole wheat toast
Boil eggs 20 minutes. Mash very well with a fork. Crumble
toast to make crumbs. Add crushed cereal and toast crumbs to
eggs and mix in thoroughly with eggs.
Feed this to cockatiel pairs feeding chicks.
Sandy's Bird Show
Bread
Contributed by Sandy Warren
~ Feathered Frenzy Aviary
I use Jiffy cornbread mix (2
packages) and I mix it like the directions say to.
Then I add baby food:
2 jars sweet potatoes
2 jars carrots
small container of plain yogert
blueberries
I like to bake them in the mini muffin pans so they are
easier to give to the birds.
They will nibble on these even when they are stressed
and a lot of nutrition is packed in one mini muffin.
Avian Health Care
Tips: DIET
Barton C. Huber, D.V.M. (Dr. Bart)
Corona, California
(909) 222-4053
Birds get sick for many
reasons but there are two main categories where most of the
problems lie. These two categories are the bird's
environment and diet. After these comes trauma as a source
of problems, but it runs a weak third. If bird owners can
optimize their bird's environment and diet, many problems
that we avian veterinarians see could be avoided. This means
that your bird can live a longer, healthier life and your
wallet will also be spared much trauma!
When you do need the
services of a veterinarian, make sure that the veterinarian
is an avian veterinarian who sees birds on a regular basis.
It is not a bad idea to call around and talk to some of the
local veterinarians who claim to be "bird experts" and ask
them some questions. Don't be afraid to ask for references
either.
Poor or inadequate diet is the number one reason for illness
in birds. Whether the illness is due primarily to the
deficiency or the birds get a secondary infection, diet is
the key. Dietary deficiencies cause a wide range of disease,
ranging from poor feather color and feather picking to
severe upper respiratory infections to egg binding in laying
hens (a situation where an egg is stuck in the reproductive
tract of the female bird).
We will break diet into
categories then offer some ideas of optimal or healthy diets
for your bird: The five categories are: 1. vitamin and
mineral, 2. protein, 3.carbohydrates, 4. vegetables and
fruits, 5. fats.
Vitamin and Mineral:
Vitamin A deficiency is the most common single dietary
deficiency or problem seen in cage birds. Vitamin A may be
provided as actual vitamin A or as beta carotene. The
advantage of beta carotene is that you cannot give too much
to your birds whereas vitamin A, if over- supplemented could
cause liver and bone disease. Many foods are high in vitamin
A and this list, along with other healthy fruits and
vegetables will be provided in the vegetable and fruit
section.
Vitamin D3 is the next
most common problem. Vitamin D3 is essential for healthy
bones, feathers, and egg laying. Without this vitamin,
calcium cannot be properly used by the body. Natural
sunlight will allow the body to produce normal amounts of
this vitamin so will using vita lights or other full
spectrum lighting if indoors. Windows absorb too much of the
UV light necessary for vitamin D3 so placing your bird by a
window will not work. Vitamin supplementation is an easy and
inexpensive way to ensure your bird receives proper amounts
of all vitamins. It is important to use vitamins made for
birds as they will contain vitamin D3. Other forms of
vitamin D will not be properly utilized by your bird; they
need to have D3. Although the rest of the vitamins are also
necessary, I just wanted to review the two most important
ones.
In the case of minerals,
calcium is the most important. The only birds that require
extra calcium in their diet are African Gray parrots, Blue
Fronted Amazons, and any bird laying eggs. All other birds
will receive enough calcium from a good vitamin/mineral
supplement. Cuttle bone, mineral blocks, manu blocks, oyster
shell grit, and D-CA-PHOS (Fort Dodge) are all excellent and
natural sources of calcium. Do not overdose your birds with
the food additive type of calcium supplements as it may
cause calcification of their internal organs.
The best type of
supplements to give your bird are the powder forms that go
on the food. Water soluble types are not as good as they are
low in the fat soluble (A and D3) and vitamins break down
fast in water losing potency and increase the growth of
bacteria.
A few brands I would
recommend are Prime, Avia, Superpreen, and Necton. Only buy
enough vitamins to last six months or less as they slowly
lose their potency when exposed to air. Vitamins/mineral
supplements are utilized best when mixed with wet foods not
seeds or pellets.
Protein: Birds do need
protein in their diet; the amount and type vary on the
bird's activity and age. More active birds (show birds and
birds in large flights that fly around a lot) and breeding
birds (egg laying hens, parents feeding their young) and
growing birds need more protein than the average caged pet
bird. Older birds or birds with certain metabolic diseases
such as liver and kidney disease or gout need less protein.
The quality of the protein is also important. While many
seeds have decent amounts of protein, the quality is not
that great unless the bird eats all the seed types in the
mix in proper proportions. Since this is not realistic, I
prefer to give the birds pellets. Seeds are also very high
in fat and most birds prefer the taste of seeds over other
foods, this may lead to obesity as well as deficiencies.
There are many brands of
pellets available, stick to the brand names, avoid newcomers
to the market that are not from a regular bird food
manufacturer. Many of the pellet companies have a variety of
pellets for your birds needs, Consult your avian
veterinarian if you are unsure of which type to feed your
bird.
Many birds who have been
on seed will not readily accept the pellets. You may need to
"cold turkey" them on to the pellets by withholding their
seeds, make sure they have plenty of water and "wet" foods.
If you are uncomfortable doing this type of change over, you
can offer your bird a mix of pellets and seeds or place an
additional bowl of pellets next to the seeds. You may want
to offer a limited amount of seed so that your bird is
hungry enough to try the pellets (this holds true when
offering any new food to your bird that they do not seem to
want).
Birds are like young
children, they will not make wise nutritional choices on
their own, and are usually afraid to try new things. Be
patient whenever you are attempting diet changes or offering
new foods to your birds. If your bird will not eat pellets
or you want to offer seeds, their diet should be no more
than 20-50% seed (depending on their activity levels and
whether they are outside or inside and the environmental
temperature). Avoid sunflower seeds unless using the new low
fat sunflower seeds available, the birds really enjoy the
taste of sunflower seeds and will preferentially eat them
over other foods. They are high in fat and not very
nutritious. If you want to give your birds sunflower seeds,
use them as treats or rewards.
Other good sources of
protein for your bird are non-fat cottage cheese, regular
cheese (high in fat), lean cooked meats (beef and poultry)
and well- cooked chicken bones. Give these protein sources
once or twice a week in addition to a balanced diet offered
daily.
Carbohydrates: There are
two forms of carbohydrates, simple and complex. Simple ones
are the sugars. They are rapidly digested and absorbed and
are not very good for your bird. Avoid giving treats that
are high in sugar, never give your bird chocolate as there
is a substance in there which can kill your bird. Fruits are
high in sugar and therefore need to be given in moderation.
Complex carbohydrates are
the starches. These are great energy sources for you bird
and serve as building blocks for non-essential amino acid
(the building blocks of protein) and fats. Your bird should
have starches in its diet in the form of cooked rice, beans
(good for protein as well), cooked potatoes, pizza crust,
pasta, corn, and tortillas.
Vegetables and Fruit:
There are only a few things your bird should not have in
this group of foods. One is avocado. There is a substance
avocado that is fatal to birds and there is no treatment
once they have eaten it and get sick. Iceberg lettuce is
mostly water and has little nutritional value, birds seem to
like it and will eat it over other good vegetables.
The following list is not
complete but contains many of the vegetables and fruits that
are high in vitamin A or beta carotene: broccoli, dried red
chili peppers (birds do not salivate so they do not detect
the hotness of these peppers like you or I would but if your
bird kisses you after eating some of these, watch out!),
Sweet potatoes and yams -- cooked or raw, carrots, winter
squash, pumpkin, red cabbage, mustard greens, brussel
sprouts, spinach, kale asparagus, parsley (give sparingly),
dark leafy lettuce -- not iceberg lettuce, papaya, apricots,
peaches, mango, cantaloupe, cherries (may turn stool or
droppings a dark red color that looks like blood but is
harmless), and watermelon. Many of the other vegetables not
listed are okay to eat. You can use fresh or frozen
vegetables, but avoid canned vegetables as they are
processed and have had most of the good nutritional value
destroyed. You can give these raw or in the case of frozen,
thawed out. Cooking is not necessary (you may find that your
bird prefers cooked yams and sweet potatoes over raw, just
make sure they have cooled down).
Your bird can eat as many
vegetables as it wants, that's okay, but avoid too much
fruit as it is mostly sugar and water and therefore, not all
that nutritious. Always wash fresh fruits and vegetables
thoroughly before feeding. If you use fruit cocktail, buy
the type with no sugar or syrup added. Your bird's droppings
will get more watery when you feed them fruits and
vegetables, especially with fruits. Do not mistake this for
diarrhea. It is usually an increase in urine production due
to the high water content of these types of food, or in
other words, water in, water out!
The fecal portion of the
dropping should remain formed but you will see less of the
white stuff (urates) and more "water" (urine). This is okay.
If the fecal portion is also unformed or has an odor, then
you need to have the bird checked. Remember, your vet needs
to see the droppings so do not clean the cage before your
visit.
Fats: Fat deficiency is
rare to non-existent in birds, especially in the pet bird.
There are cases where birds require a certain type of oil in
their diet, but fat is usually quite plentiful. Most cage or
pet birds tend to have diets that are too high in fat. This
is usually due to a high seed intake. Most seeds are high in
fat. A good rule of thumb is the larger the seed, the
greater the fat content (by percentage of makeup). Sunflower
seeds are the largest contributor to obesity in birds.
Peanuts are another high fat food that birds love to eat, so
offer them as treats only (or not at all). Large nuts are
also high in fat. Seed treats like honey sticks are very
high calorie, high fat foods and should only be given to
your birds once a month or less. Many people think that
since these birds eat high fat foods in the wild that they
need them in captivity, however, your bird is not getting
the exercise that a wild bird gets when flying around
looking for food. Besides, if a wild bird gets an obesity
problem, it falls easy prey for a predator or gets sick and
dies. Not a good outcome.
The best way to minimize
your bird's fat intake is to minimize fatty foods. Seeds
should constitute only 20-50% of the diet if you want to
feed seeds. Pellets are good, since they are low in fat.
Your bird can eat all it wants and will not get fat. If you
bird likes regular cheeses, give them sparingly. The yolk of
hard boiled eggs is high in fat and should be given
judiciously, egg whites are a good protein source and have
no appreciable fat content. Chicken and turkey skin and meat
trimmings are very high in fat and should be avoided. Do not
supplement your birds diet with any fats or oils unless you
consult your avian veterinarian first.
The Optimal Diet
What should your bird eat? Here are some suggestions. They
are offered only as a guide line; some variation is okay. A
good rule of thumb is that anything that is good for a human
with a heart condition (remember, no avocado or chocolates).
Diet 1.
Maintenance pellets (Pretty
Bird ), offered on an as eat basis. If your birds are
breeding/laying you may need to go to a pellet designed for
production. Offer vegetables and fruits -- 75-90%
vegetables, the rest fruit daily. Mix your vitamins in with
this. Change the bowl daily, clean and disinfect it on a
regular basis. If you live in a humid climate, you may need
to change this bowl two to three times a day to prevent
spoilage. Offer daily table foods, part of your breakfast,
lunch, or dinner if you want. Remember, moderation is the
key. Treats such as honey sticks and nuts should be given
once a month or less.
Diet 2.
Use a safflower based seed mix in place of the pellets.
Sunflower and peanut type diets, while they taste good, are
too high in fat and not nutritious enough for your bird. If
there is left-over seed at the end of the day you are
probably offering your bird too much seed. Make sure your
bird eats the other goodies. Some times it is best to offer
seeds twice a day for 15-30 minutes then remove the seed
bowl so the bird will eat the other foods. If your bird is
overweight despite a low fat, healthy diet, consult your
avian veterinarian.
Diet 3.
This is not really a diet as much as a place to put table
food! Offer your bird what you are eating. Do not offer your
bird food off your fork or spoon, out of your mouth, or
anything you have bitten off of as this is a great way to
make your bird sick. The bacteria in our mouths are not good
for your bird.
Another treat you can
give your bird is Zu-preem Monkey Chow. This is a good brand
since it is not oily and has a low bacterial count. Purina
Monkey Chow is very oily and has a high E. coli count so it
should not be used. Dog and cat food, while a good source of
protein and a balanced meal is designed for dogs and cats.
It is high in bacteria that will not hurt your dog or cat
but could get your bird sick. With all the good commercial
diets available for your bird, using foods formulated for
other species is not really necessary.
Water: Birds need plenty
of fresh water, not only for drinking but also for bathing.
If your bird does not like to take baths, there is nothing
wrong with him; he just does not like to take baths! The
water bowl should be large enough for the bird to get its
head into, not just his beak. You should change your bird's
water daily, if your bird is a messy eater, or likes to dip
his food in his water, you may need to change it more often.
Depending on the number of birds and their location, the
water bowl(s) should be disinfected on a regular basis. This
will be covered in the section on disinfection. It is best
to use bottled or filtered water since many municipal
supplies are borderline at best and may be high in minerals
and contaminants. Tap water sometimes has low levels of
bacteria that may be harmful to your bird. Water that is
safe for human consumption is not necessarily safe for your
bird!
If your bird has a habit
of defecating in its water then you need a covered or hooded
bowl for water, this helps to keep the water clean. You
should never add anything to your bird's water without
consulting with your avian veterinarian. As mentioned
earlier, vitamins should not be added to your bird's water.
Your bird may like to be misted with a spray bottle on a
regular basis. If this is to be done, make sure that the
water is fresh and has no additives. Outdoor birds should be
provided with misters or Sprinklers that can be turned on in
the hot weather to help cool the aviary as well as allows
your birds something to play in.
Sprouting or
Germinating Seeds
From Pet Bird Web
·
Sprouted seeds are more
nutrient-dense as they are high in vegetable proteins
vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and chlorophyll.
·
Sprouted seeds are lower in fat,
as the process of sprouting utilizes the fat in the seed to
start the growing process - thus reducing the fat stored in
the seeds.
·
It is in invaluable food at all
times; however, it is especially important for breeding or
molting birds. Sprouted seeds also serve as a great rearing
and weaning food as the softened shell is easier to break by
chicks and gets them used to the texture of seeds.
·
Sprouting: Sprouting is the
practice of soaking seeds overnight (1 part seeds to 5 parts
water), draining them, placing them into a sprouting jar (a
sieve propped up in a bowl to allow the water to drain will
do just fine); and then rinsing the seeds several times a
day until they start to sprout (they usually start sprouting
after about 24 hours) - at which time they are ready to
feed. For the next days, the seeds will continue to grow.
The different stages provide different nutrients to your
bird. For a few birds, a few tablespoons of seeds are
sufficient. If properly attended to, the sprouted seeds will
last for up to 5 days. Discard if a foul smell can be
detected. If early spoiling is an issue, adding a few drops
of
Hydrogen Peroxide or
GSE added to the rinsing
water will prevent early spoiling. In most cases, this may
not be necessary.
Sprouted or germinating seeds presents
the simplest method of providing your birds with fresh
greens. They are a healthy food addition for all birds, but
are absolute necessity for the feeding hen and for the newly
weaned young. Sprouted or germinated seeds are usually more
easily accepted by "seed addicts" than fresh fruits and
vegetables.
·
Don't want to go through the
trouble of sprouting?
·
Germination offers an
easy, clean and safe way to provide superior nutrition to
your birds. Simply soak the seeds to the point where the
root tips show and feed to your birds ....
·
Process: Soak a daily portion of
seeds, grains and legumes (or "Simple Sprouts") in pure,
clean water overnight. If you keep the seeds at room
temperature (on the counter, for example), the seeds start
germinating after 12 hours. If you keep the soaking seeds in
the fridge, it will take around 24 hours to germinate).
Germination is safer as the process is shorter and the seeds
or grains don’t have time to deteriorate - and yet,
germinated seeds also offer superior "living" nutrition
similar to sprouts.... Note: only germinate one portion at a
time.
·
Superior Nutrition Food:
Herbs Specifically for Bird Health & Healthy Dried Fruits &
Veggies - Make Excellent Healthy Bird Treats & Food!
I always provide sprouts, every day
without fail -- even if I don't have time to wash and cut
veggies and fruits some days -- providing a spoonful of
sprouts is so easy and convenient, and I know it's good for
my birds. Sprouts offer an inexpensive and convenient way to
feed fresh greens to your birds daily.
Little time, effort or space is needed
to make sprouts.. In addition to the regular bird seeds,
many seeds for sprouting are available in health food
stores.
Basics of Sprouting:
You start with a good sprouting mix.
Take a small portion of it and rinse it well. Then cover it
with water (1 part of seeds to 5 parts of water) and put it
in the fridge overnight.
The next morning, rinse well and place
in a common strainer (like the one to the right) and place
the strainer in a plastic or glass container that allows any
rinse water to drain into the container.
Water the mix several times a day
thoroughly to remove any mold / bacteria, etc. and also to
keep the sprouting mix moist -- a requirement for sprouting.
Your sprouts should have an agreeable / sweetish scent. If
you can detect a foul smell -- an indicator of bacteria or
mold growing on it -- toss it. Don't feed to your birds.
There are ways to prevent your sprouts from going off
prematurely, one of which is to rinse frequently and
thoroughly to rinse off mold, etc. Other tips are discussed
below.
What is Needed for Sprouting:
To sprout seeds, the seeds are
moistened, then left at room temperature (between 15.4
degrees and 69.8 degrees Fahrenheit or 13 and 21 degrees
Celsius) in a sprouting vessel. Moisture, warmth, and in
most cases, indirect sunlight are necessary for sprouting.
Many different types of vessels can be
used:
·
A normal kitchen sieve propped
up in a plastic or glass container / bowl works perfectly
fine; or
·
Tiered’ clear plastic sprouters
are commercially available (one is featured to the right). I
bought several and found the one to the right to be the
easiest one to use. I also tried the "easy sprouter" but I
found it cumbersome to use. The tiered sprouter is
convenient because it allows me to sprout different crops at
different stages. The instructions that come with the
sprouter advise you not to wash it in the dishwasher, but I
have been doing so without any problems. However, I place
the sprouter in the top tray of the dishwasher.
Alternatively:
·
Automatic Sprouter (featured to
the right) -- expensive, but if you don't have time to
sufficiently rinse the sprouts -- it represents an option.
Sprouts are rinsed as little as twice a
day, but possibly three or four times a day in hotter
climates, to prevent them from souring. I keep my sprouts
right on the window sill above my sink -- that way they get
plenty of light and I can't forget to rinse them throughout
the day. If your house isn't air conditioned and you live in
a hot and humid area, I would recommend keeping the sprouts
in the fridge. They take longer to sprout, but you have less
to worry about fungi, mildew or bacteria.
Birds like sprouts when they just
started to open up, which usually happens after one day or
so of sprouting.
Common causes for sprouts to turn out
inedible:
·
Seeds are allowed to dry out
·
Seeds are left in standing water
·
Temperature is high or too low
·
Insufficient rinsing
·
Dirty equipment
·
Insufficient air flow
These problems are easily solved by an
automatic sprouter that mists and drains the sprouts at
regular intervals. To control temperature, in the winter a
warming blanket can be placed under the sprouter, and in the
summer small fans in the lid if it's very hot and humid.
How much do I need?
For a few birds only a quarter cup of
seeds should be sprouted at a time. Seeds increase in volume
tremendously when sprouted. Place the seeds in a clean glass
jar. Fill with tap water and let stand at room temperature
for twenty-four hours. Rinse and drain completely. I keep
the seeds in a sieve propped up in a plastic container and
repeat the rinsing and draining completely daily until the
seed has sprouted.
Ways to Keep Sprouted Seeds fresh
longer:
If a foul odor or mold develops,
discard.
Ways to prevent spoilage (choose one or
a variation of the below - whatever works best for you):
Hydrogen Peroxide: Add 1 ounce 3%
hydrogen peroxide to 1 pint of water and soak the seeds
overnight. Add the same amount of hydrogen peroxide each
time you rinse the seeds. (It prevents bacterial growth)
GSE: Alternatively, adding a few drops
of Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE)
in the soaking and rinsing water will also prevent pathogens
from developing. As an additional benefit, GSE also has good
anti-parasitic properties.
Buffered, Powdered Vitamin C (example
Nutricology or other brand): A little powder added to the
sprouting water should keep it fresh.
Organic Apple Cider Vinegar: ACD alters
pH and so is effective in killing many pathogens.
Rinsing and draining well is very
important.
After sprouting commenced - keep
refrigerated. Any surplus sprouts may be refrigerated up to
two weeks.
Food Sources of Calcium, Phosphorus and
Vitamin D3
Seeds are usually calcium
deficient as can be seen in their calcium/phosphorus ratios.
Millet 1 : 6, oats 1 : 8, sunflower seeds 1 : 7. Muscle meat
is low in calcium and high in phosphorus 1 : 20.
|
Sources
of Nutrients
Source: Avian Medicine: The Principles and
Application. Based on
information from the National Research Council
and a Kaytee Technical Bulletin
|
|
Vitamin/
Mineral |
Excellent
(over 20 times requirement) |
Good
(over 2 times requirement) |
Adequate
(1/2-2 times requirement) |
|
Calcium
Phosphorus
Vitamin D3 |
Calcium carbonate
(cuttlebone, eggshell)
Bone Meal
Dicalcium phosphate
Bone Meal
Dicalcium phosphate
Fish liver oil
Liver
Fish oil
|
Fish & meat meals
Kelp
Alfalfa meal
Whey
Fish & meat meals
Brewer's yeast
Dried whey
Wheat Germ Meal
Peanuts
Pumpkin Seeds
Most oil seeds
Nuts
Eggs (especially yolk)
|
Dried milk
Cheese
Oil type seeds
Most nuts
Corn Gluten
Cereal grains
Egg
Dried milk
|
The Midwest Bird & Exotic
Animal Hospital in Westchester, IL has compiled
information on a number of foods. The Calcium and
Phosphorus contents are for 1 cup of food.
|
Good
Calcium Sources |
|
Food |
CA (mg) |
|
P (mg) |
|
Ca:P Ratio |
|
|
Beet Greens
Broccoli Leaves
Broccoli Stem
Cabbage (outside green leaves)
Celery
Chard
Chinese Cabbage
Collards (cooked)
Dandelion Greens
Endive
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce Dark Green Leaf
Mustard Greens
Orange or Tangerine
Parsley
Spinach
Turnip Greens
Watercress
Watermelon
Yellow Wax Beans
|
188
349
111
429
44
300
400
14
168
104
390
390
25
582
48
46
156
694
53
33
63
|
|
80
89
47
72
32
100
72
150
70
39
134
120
14
168
18
30
92
98
15
9
46
|
|
|
1:0.4
1:0.26
1:0.4
1:0.17
1:0.7
1:0.33
1:0.2
1:0.4
1:0.4
1:0.4
1:0.4
1:0.3
1:0.56
1:0.29
1:0.4
1:0.65
1:0.6
1:0.14
1:0.3
1:0.27
1:0.7
|
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